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September.
22 , 2008: Jean
Anderson: A
Love Affair with Southern Cooking: Recipes and Recollections
by Jean Anderson (William Morrow Cookbooks). More than
a cookbook, this is the story of how a little girl, born in the
South of Yankee parents, fell in love with southern cooking at the
age of five. And a bite of brown sugar pie was all it took.
"I shamelessly wangled supper invitations from my playmates,"
Anderson admits. "But I was on a voyage of discovery, and back then
iron-skillet corn bread seemed more exotic than my mom's Boston
brown bread and yellow squash pudding more appealing than mashed
parsnips."
After college up north, Anderson worked in rural North Carolina as
an assistant home demonstration agent, scarfing good country cooking
seven days a week: crispy "battered" chicken, salt-rising bread,
wild persimmon pudding, Jerusalem artichoke pickles, Japanese
fruitcake. Later, as a New York City magazine editor, then a
freelancer, Anderson covered the South, interviewing cooks and
chefs, sampling local specialties, and scribbling notebooks full of
recipes.
Now, at long last, Anderson shares her lifelong exploration of the
South's culinary heritage and not only introduces the characters she
met en route but also those men and women who helped shape America's
most distinctive regional cuisine—people like Thomas Jefferson, Mary
Randolph, George Washington Carver, Eugenia Duke, and Colonel Harlan
Sanders.
Anderson gives us the backstories on such beloved Southern brands as
Pepsi-Cola, Jack Daniel's, Krispy Kreme doughnuts, MoonPies, Maxwell
House coffee, White Lily flour, and Tabasco sauce. She builds a time
line of important southern food firsts—from Ponce de León's
reconnaissance in the "Island of Florida" (1513) to the reactivation
of George Washington's still at Mount Vernon (2007). For those who
don't know a Chincoteague from a chinquapin, she adds a glossary of
southern food terms and in a handy address book lists the best
sources for stone-ground grits, country ham, sweet sorghum, boiled
peanuts, and other hard-to-find southern foods.
Recipes? There are two hundred classic and contemporary, plain and
fancy, familiar and unfamiliar, many appearing here for the first
time. Each recipe carries a headnote—to introduce the cook whence it
came, occasionally to share snippets of lore or back-stairs gossip,
and often to explain such colorful recipe names as Pine Bark Stew,
Chicken Bog, and Surry County Sonker.